Our plan for day 2, was to ride along the coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula and get as far as Hellnar where a friend of mine mentioned there was a sweet camping spot next to the ruins of an old church. It was also our plan to coast along in lovely weather, with views of the sea, birds, whales and all sorts of Icelandic amazingness…
We woke up in Bogarnes to drizzle…
However, the first job this morning was to get my bike rack secured on the bike properly so I could continue the adventure and rip up on all the gravel roads Dave had planned for us. We imagined Bogarnes to be a decent-sized town since it is a meeting point of many roads coming from the West Fjords and a main stopping point on the Ring Road…we were mistaken. It is very small. We couldn’t find a hardware store and the zip ties we picked up in the petrol station probably wouldn’t support my 15kg+ rack and panniers.
After much faffing, we headed down to the haven and made friends with a plumber, his son, and his pipe-smoking father. A thorough scouring of their mishmash of every little clamp and clip ever invented, combined with Nick’s analytical accounting approach and Dave’s genius but totally chaotic approach – meant my rack was fixed in 30minutes flat and hey-ho…off we go!
One bottle of Irish whiskey less (they wouldnt accept money) and we were on our way!
Miserable in the Drizable
The most eventful part of our day was finally reaching Lýsuhóll. We decided to call it a day there, after 100km of riding and knowing that we wouldn’t make it to Hellnar. We were soaked wet and morale was a bit low after riding 5 hours in rain and fog. The guesthouse was, unfortunately, full, but up the road, we found a little gem called Kast Guesthouse, also full, but the campsite around the back of the guesthouse was mint. We had excellent coffee from the Ozzie working in their café, drooled over the cakes and ate some, and by the time we were motivated to set up camp, the skies had cleared! Oh! There is a God! We could dry our clothes out!
Next step: Hot pool.
Hot Pools are not for Fools
I never thought I would appreciate a hot pool as much as I did when I was in Iceland. Not one for spending my free time in Swiss Wellness’ (although I do like it I’m usually somewhere in the mountains or enjoying a city trip) I didn’t think I would be bothered much with stopping especially to soak in a hot pool. Oh, how that changed. The wind and rain can be demoralizing in Iceland, being passed by smug tourists in their 4×4’s while you’ve got your head down, battling forwards and hauling 25kgs of kit around with you. Throughout our trip, we kept going through the rain and wind, based on the knowledge that at the end of it all…there would be two hours of bliss in a hot pool. Our first hot pool was at Lysohull. Dave was relatively well-behaved and didn’t do any whale impressions.
Our first hot pool was at Lysohull. Dave was relatively well-behaved and didn’t do any whale impressions.
The hot pool in Lýsuhóll was the first one on our trip, the sides of the pool were covered in slimy, natural algae from the water which, in comparison with other pools, seemed to have quite a lot of sulfur and nutrients. It was, heaven. We consolidated the high by following up with a fabulous (Icelandic priced) meal in the Kast guesthouse and went to bed content, and looking forward to the next day and better weather, and views, and everything!
Stay tuned, good bit to come…